June 2017, Cossma:

Cutting-edge perfection

Cosmetic pencils | What are the latest market trends? And what solutions does Faber-Castell Cosmetics suggest as an answer to prospective future trends? 

Dr Christina Zech, Managing Director, Faber-Castell Cosmetics:

a) Nearly all kinds of brow products
b) New super gliding and ultra-lasting eye-liners and kajals and, last but not least,
c) Liquid liners with a broad choice of different tip formats
In recent years, social media stars and bloggers have become a rich source for makeup inspiration. They promote their trends and challenging ideas on YouTube and Instagram. They are key when it comes to understanding Gen Z and their approach to beauty. What are currently the most innovative markets and why?
A lot of new products (i.e. BB and CC creams) were generated in South Korea, a very young and curious market. In the US, west-coast brands are gaining momentum and new niche brands are setting new accents.

What products are particularly innovative currently?
There is a lot of innovation currently in both the mascara and nail segments, with new fake lashes mascara and nail gel lacquers in conventional bottles that allow the consumer to achieve a look as fresh as from a nail studio. And generally speaking, supply chain innovation is an important factor as the market demands more and more agility.

What are the most important challenges for the global cosmetics market?
Complying with the complexity of the worldwide regulatory environments is always a challenge. Another challenge in complexity is the supply chain, due to the broad range of our formats, shapes and formulation platforms and shades.

Could you please briefly describe the most important recent developments in the field of natural colour cosmetics?
The biggest challenge, first of all, is to comply with the demands of the associations such as Ecocert and NaTrue without sacrificing the performance and the colour variety common in traditional products. At our company we offer organic, Ecocert-certified formulations. Our latest developments include a range of vegan formulations, a contribution to ever more conscious consumers. The trend towards natural and vegan colour cosmetics is particularly predominant in Western Europe, where consumers are more sensitised. This has led to a broader choice of natural products being available here.
As the claim “natural” is not protected, the market is characterised by a lot of green-washing. In general, the ban of parabens and PAKs led to the creation of more “sensitive” products.

What have been your company’s most exciting solutions lately in the field of colour cosmetics?

Wonderbrow is a lightweight pigmented gel formula that wraps each brow hair in a touch of colour and keeps them in place from am to pm. The long-lasting waterproof for-mula neither clumps, nor flakes, nor hardens. It provides a well-groomed, fuller appearance that won’t fade or wear off for 12 hours. The special flow-through bristle brush manages stray hairs and combs brows into perfect shape. The dosed application is activated with each “click”.
Brow Tint is a layerable, water-based formulation for a soft and natural look. It dries quickly and offers all-day wear as it does not smudge, fade or smear. The slanted tip is perfect for sculpting and filling in. It is also suitable for men and will last through gruelling workouts.
Micro Bristles is a new accessory for our Mechanical Pencil. Its controlled shape, density and hardness provide excellent blending in a continuous track. It was presented in combination with our Brow Powderliner, a dry, lightweight formula with smooth glide which creates a precise, powdery line without crumbling.
In addition, our extremely long-lasting gel-like and buttery textures in pencil-like packagings have been significant recent creations.

What other recent launches have been innovative?

Our slim plastic line Magnetic is suitable for very long-lasting eye and lip formulations. It can easily be customised from top to toe in any colour and is now available with shiny, matte, pearly and metallic finishes. We developed extraordinary formulations and a striking colour range that varies from classic to electric, matte to metallic. Its gel-like consistency makes it glide on like a dream, then sets to a super lasting finish.
The intense metallic eye- and lip-liner Metallic Blings, which can also be used as kajal, are infused with very fine sparkling pearls and create a homogenous line in one stroke. The cream formulation provides a very intense metallic shine, locking in maximum sparkle with no glitter fallout as it forms a homogeneous unit in one stroke. The formula with super soft application has a very good pay-off and then sets to a long-lasting finish for up to 16 hours. The high pigmentation goes on supersoft and offers full coverage.
Jelly Baby is a gel-like texture with multi-coloured sparkles that makes lips look pure and glossy. The clear, wet-shine balm is enriched with smooth oils for soft and conditioned lips. The jumbo-sized, colour-matched pencil is also infused with glitter particles.
Our Slim and Chubby Liquid Liner range offers an extensive variety of different tips for different styles. At Cosmopack in Bologna we presented two new tips: Peek-a-boo eye styler has a paddle tip that provides a double-flow passage around the central opening, ensuring a continuous, extraordinary saturated line. Candy Bead lip tint has a bubble-shaped tip with a cushion feel. It glides on easily with a smooth touch and provides a soft and saturated line. We presented it with a 10-hour lasting lip tint but of course, it is also available as an eyeliner.

How does your company generate innovations?
We combine our internal expertise with ideas from various outside sources. Having our fingers on the pulse is essential and so is our ability to filter gimmick from real innovation. Our reliable network of partners helps us to gain extra momentum where needed and find cutting-edge crossover solutions for tomorrow’s needs. The mixture is the key: Highest quality, reliability, innovation and ultimate convenience.

How has the cosmetics division of Faber developed in recent years?
Faber-Castell Cosmetics is on track for success and has made substantial progress during the past two years. In addition, it has recently gained more strategic importance within the entire Faber-Castell Group.

In how many markets are you particularly active?
Being a supplier with production sites in Germany and Brazil, our biggest markets are Europe and the US. Needless to say, Latin America is also growing substantially.
Apart from the traditionally strong markets, the Arab countries and Turkey have developed successfully. Products with long-lasting properties are a must in these regions.
For the future, our strategy is to be where our customers are and to meet their needs.

How does a German company compete with companies from Asia?
In days of growing salaries in China, a strong USD and persisting concerns in some seg-ments sourced from Asia, we are luckily not in the situation of losing business in our target price segments to Chinese suppliers. For the APAC region as a whole, the lack in supply chain agility towards Europe is a significant disadvantage for finished products, in particular in the light of the growing shade-range complexity. But the buying power and customer base in the APAC region is also growing, and in general, the concept of regional production for the area is gaining more momentum.

What are your favourite colour cosmetics products personally and why?

Pencils…I am always on the go. They are clean, safe and easy to use in every situation. It is easy to carry multiple shades, they are easy to blend and in many cases allow one-hand application.

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